Fatu Hiva Marquases

We sailed into the bay of Virgins on the island of Fatu Hiva on the 31st March 2024. If we thought that Hiva Oa and Tahuata were beautiful, then Bay of Virgins left us speechless with it beauty. The bay of Hanavave (bay of Virgins) is a deep bay with steep cliffs either side, dropping steeply to a brief coral shelf, and the bay itself. The bay is at the base of an incredible Valley, that conjour up thoughts of Typee and Polynesian dreams.

The Bay of Hanavave was named by early seafarers as the bay of Penises, but re named Bay of Virgins by the missionarys. We went ashore for a brief walk on arrival and had not reached the end of the first street before the locals were offering us fruit. Please take it, or it will rot on the ground!

The following morning we hiked up the valley to find a waterfall. About half way up the valley we had takten a few wrong turns that are all part of the adventure, then it started to pour with rain. Supprisingly the rain did not hinder our spirits but cooled us down enough to continue walking up the valley in 30+ degree heat. On our way to the waterfall, following a brazed trail through the jungle a breadfruit fell from a tree, narrowly missing Issy, and splatting on the ground! We finally made it to the waterfall at about 11am. Reportedly this waterfall is the third highest waterfall in the world, but we obviously could not see the top. We enjoyed a quick swim and began our return treck through the jungle.

On our return walking back through the village we were offered even more fruit and asked to visit one of the local artesians Henri who is famous for his stone and wood carvings which were absolutely stunning. We learnt that the locals are famous for putting on a Ki Ki (Hungi in New Zealand) and enquired who was the best Chief, and pointed in the direction of Simon up the hill. That evening we asked a few of the other cruisers if they would be keen join us for a Ki Ki with Simon.

The next day I hiked up to Simons house to book in the Ki Ki and give him a hand gathering coconuts and digging out the Ki Ki Pit. I also sat with Simon and watched him work on his own carvings. Later in the day we returned to Henri’s house and purchased some local carvings. Max donated some of his old shoes to Henri’s grandson, and in return was given a beautiful stone necklace. I would have liked to buy some local Tapa – a traditional cloth made from tree bark, but unfortunately our budget did not allow any more treasures. That night we walked up the hill with our new cruising friends and ate a Ki Ki banquet of pig, chicken, fish, and breadfruit.

Snorkling around the bay of Virgins was absolutely stunning. There was a deep drop off to 10m in the bay, and 60m at the enterance of the bay, with coral growing on the drop off, and hundreds of species of fish. Hanavave is the type of place that tempts one to give up normal life, buy a banana patch from the locals, and live in the wild.