Niku Hiva Marquases

Sunday Island sailed from the beautiful Bay of Virgins on the 5th of April with full sail, reaching back towards Resolution bay on Tahuata island where we anchored in the evening and caught up with some friends who were also in the bay for the night. The next morning we had Mana Rays swimming under the boat, and we headed into the beach for a quick play before sailing up towards Hana Mo Noa in the north of Tahuata. When we sailed into Hna Mo Noa it was another beautiful bay, however it was too exposed to the swell and sea for a good anchorage, so we decided to continue overnight towards Niku Hiva, arriving in Taiohae bay at 0315 on the 8th April, and celebrating the passage with a couple of rums.

After a few hours sleep we were up and in the dinghy heading to the markets. There is an awesome Artesian market in Taiohae bay, and great vegetable market, and we found some good shops well supplied with food at a reasonable price. We decided not to stick about in the bay too long, because it was quite full of other yachts. Instead we sailed down to Danials bay. WOW WOW WOW! We thought bay of virgins was stunning! Danials bay is surrounded on all four sides with hills or cliff face, making it a perfect hurricane anchorage. There is fresh water from a small river, and excellent holding in mud.. You could stay there for years…. infact we met a Frenchman who had done just that, sailed from France two years ago and never left!

Not only was the bay and surrounding valley stunning, but three are Manta rays, and sharks swimming around under the boat, and apparently in calm weather excellent snorkelling…. now, how about finding that banana patch and living remotely?

The next morning we decided to do the 2 hour hike to the waterfall…. whoever said 2 hours must have jogged the track, and definalty didn’t stop to smell the roses, but there was so much to see, the three hour walk to the waterfall was not a struggle. We found Tiki’s, an old broken Toyota Hilux (I thought that was impossible), ceremonial pits where they kept the human sacrifices, ruions of old villages made of stone, amazing trees, birds, rivers, waterfalls… wow wow wow! As we made our way up the valley it started to rain, an broken sign said watch for falling rocks, and we looked up anxiously at the towering cliffs above. We made it to the waterfall, but because of the precarious overhanging cliffs we did not stay there long, but returned down stream for a swim in the river.

We completed our return to the small village (3 houses) at 1400. Emilie had pre organised lunch at a locals home/restaurant and we enjoyed some superbly cooked banana, breadfruit and tuna so tender it melted in your mouth. Completely stuffed with amazing food, and exhausted from our hike, we returned to the beach for a play before heading back to Sunday island and snorkling with Manta rays while being surrounded by some of the most amazing scenery I have ever witnessed.

A few days later we sailed back to Taiohae bay in time to get some fresh provisions from arriving supply ship. We also managed to tie stern to the fuel dock to top up our Diesel tanks, before sailing to Hakahaa bay – otherwise known as Typee Bay – where Herman Melville, a runaway sailor, found his home in the valley of canables.

By this stage we have been completely spoilt by beautiful bay after beautiful bay. Hakahaa was stunning, but everybody onboard was exhausted and not inspired to go ashore. So I went on a solo mission to find another massive waterfall. 6 hours later, after many wrong turns, being attacked by Midgies, mosquito’s, and chased by wild boars, walking mostly in bare feet because the mud was so thick, I aborted my waterfall mission when it was well insight, but impossible to get the last 200m up the river! I returned to the village and decided to walk down the southern bank of the river, finding myself on the wrong side of the river mouth, and having to swim to the tender. When I finally returned to Sunday Island alive, but bitten and scratched. I was glad Em and the kids had not joined me on that mission!

The following day we had a beautiful sail up to Anaho Bay where we stayed for a few days before sailing down to the island of Ua Po and anchoring in Hakanah Bay next to the town.

For the past month we had been hoping to cross paths with the famous supply / cruise ship the Aranui 5. The ship has a cargo deck forward, and luxuary passenger accommodation aft, and it re-supplies the Marquases and Touamoto islands every month. What a very cool way to see these stunning islands! When the Aranui comes to town they often have a bit of a party involving traditional music, dancing and a feast. For a$20 for adults and $10 kids, we were able to join the passengers for the feast and celebrations. It was very impressive to watch the dancing, and by the end of the Haka Emilie and I were speechless!

After the feast the local outrigger club allowed us to test out their out rigger canoes, and we had a great time whizzing about the bay, and trying to surf the long swell. I was impressed at the outrigger performance and stability.

Ua Po was our last stop in the Marquases islands. I wish we had more time. I could have cruised around the Marquases for another 6 months, and could quite possibly one day return and never leave! What a place, what beautiful people, we will return, but please don’t change!